A recent runway showcase of Kolhapuri chappals by Prada in its Spring/Summer 2026 collection, has sparked controversy over cultural appropriation, igniting debate on the global exploitation of Indian crafts. While global exposure can boost interest in traditional designs, artisans often see little benefit due to lack of recognition, access, or legal protection. India’s Geographical Indication (GI) system offers a path to safeguard crafts like Kolhapuris, but enforcement remains weak internationally. To ensure fair compensation and visibility, India must strengthen GI protections abroad, empower artisans with digital and branding tools, and promote direct-from-artisan models. Heritage must be respected as a living tradition, not a fleeting fashion trend.
Image credit: Freepik
In June 2025, the Kolhapuri chappal—a centuries-old symbol of Indian craftsmanship—unexpectedly found itself on one of the world’s most glamorous stages. At Milan Fashion Week, luxury powerhouse Prada unveiled its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection, with seven out of 56 runway looks featuring leather sandals that bore a striking resemblance to Kolhapuris. The open-toe footwear, with its distinctive braided design, sparked immediate recognition—and controversy—thousands of miles away in India.
The backlash was swift. Artisans, cultural historians, and politicians criticized Prada for not acknowledging the heritage behind the design. Social media was flooded with comparisons between the luxury brand’s version, reportedly priced at over ₹1 lakh, and the traditional chappals still sold in Indian markets for as little as ₹1,500–2,500. While Prada eventually admitted that the design was inspired by traditional Indian footwear from Maharashtra and Karnataka, it initially described the product as nothing more than “leather flat sandals.”
The omission has triggered a larger debate about cultural appropriation, attribution, and the true beneficiaries of global fashion’s fascination with Indian aesthetics.
The Kolhapuri chappal is more than a fashion item. It is a cultural artifact with deep roots, traced back to the 12th century. In 1998, craft revivalist Jaya Jaitly visited Kolhapur to study the artisans’ lives and livelihoods. She documented a thriving but underpaid community, where makers worked 14-hour days to sell chappals for as little as ₹70–150. Though prices have increased today, artisans still struggle with limited profit margins and little visibility.
This is not the first time an Indian craft has been “discovered” by the West. In fact, Indian textiles, accessories, and artisan goods have been making their way into high-end fashion houses and designer catalogues for years—often stripped of their original names and meaning. The humble jhola, once a staple at roadside stalls and often thrown in free with groceries, now retails for ₹4,000 on Nordstrom’s website. Saudi Arabia, one of the wealthiest nations globally, is known for its premium-priced goods. A recent viral video has stunned many by showcasing a pair of chappals being sold for a staggering 4,500 Riyals—roughly ₹1 lakh. The slippers, featuring a simple white and blue design commonly found in Indian markets for about ₹100, have sparked widespread disbelief over their inflated price tag.
The Kolhapuri chappals are just the latest example in a long-standing pattern of traditional Indian crafts being rebranded and repackaged for global luxury markets. Bandhani, a centuries-old tie-dye technique, has been reintroduced as “avant-garde marbling” in Western designer collections. Pashmina from Kashmir is now marketed simply as “luxury Himalayan wool,” while the humble dupatta has been sold as a “Scandinavian scarf.”
India may still be a small player in the global luxury market, but it is growing fast. As more Indians buy Louis Vuitton bags and Lamborghini cars, the global fashion industry is increasingly turning to Indian heritage for inspiration. After Prada’s Kolhapuri moment, the Pharrell Williams x Louis Vuitton show, titled Paris to India, featured music by AR Rahman and a carpet with a snake-and-ladder motif designed by Bijoy Jain.
These aesthetic nods are often applauded, but rarely do they translate into meaningful economic gain or recognition for the communities that sustain these traditions.
Prada’s runway moment did generate some positive momentum. Following the June 22 show, Google Trends reported a sharp spike in searches for “Kolhapuri chappals.” Physical stores in Pune and Nashik saw increased footfall, and online engagement soared. The renewed buzz may help younger Indian consumers reconnect with traditional crafts.
Craft and design historian Tanishka Kachru from the National Institute of Design (NID) in Ahmedabad believes that global attention, if managed right, could catalyze artisan innovation and bring economic benefit to these communities. But she also stresses that artisans should retain full ownership of these designs, as they are products of generations of knowledge and creativity.
At the core lies the issue of Geographical Indication (GI) system—a legal mechanism designed to protect region-specific products and recognize the unique cultural value embedded in them. In India, GI tags are governed by the Geographical Indications of Goods (Registration and Protection) Act, 1999. Internationally, GIs fall under the Paris Convention for the Protection of Industrial Property and are overseen by the World Trade Organization.
A GI is a promise of authenticity, origin, and traditional knowledge. India currently boasts 605 GI-tagged products across the categories.
Uttar Pradesh is the leading GI state with 74 GI-tagged products. Tamil Nadu is second with 69 GI-tagged products.
GIs operate under the “territoriality principle,” meaning they are only enforceable in the country where they are registered.
Unless India takes additional steps to register its GIs internationally—through mechanisms like the Lisbon Agreement, Madrid System, or bilateral treaties—foreign companies are under no legal obligation to credit, source from, or compensate Indian GI holders.
As a result, many artisans do not benefit from the international popularity of their crafts. Middlemen and retailers often control pricing and branding, leaving artisans with meager earnings. A Kolhapuri chappal that might be sold abroad for ₹1 lakh could earn its maker barely ₹300–500. Moreover, many GI artisans lack access to export markets, trade fairs, or digital platforms that could increase their visibility and income.
The challenges are compounded by lack of awareness. Many artisans do not even know their craft has a GI tag. Others are unfamiliar with how to leverage it. The costs of legal paperwork, international registration, branding, and packaging are out of reach for most. Meanwhile, foreign designers and brands capitalize on these crafts, framing them with polished heritage narratives that appeal to affluent global consumers.
To ensure that Indian artisans are not just passive observers but active participants in this global attention, a multi-layered strategy is needed. First, India must push for international protection of its GIs. Registering under the Lisbon Agreement and integrating GI provisions into trade agreements—such as the upcoming EU-India Free Trade Agreement—would provide global legal backing against imitation and misuse.
Second, capacity building is essential. Artisans need training in digital literacy, branding, e-commerce, and storytelling to compete in a global marketplace. They should be equipped to sell on platforms like Etsy and Amazon Handmade, and participate in international trade fairs and exhibitions.
Third, domestic policy must shift toward empowering artisan-led models. Like Champagne in France or Roquefort cheese, India should adopt a “direct-from-artisan” approach where GI holders control production, packaging, and branding. This ensures that profits return to the creators rather than middlemen or corporations.
Finally, fostering collaboration between traditional artisans and Indian fashion or product designers can elevate the design value and commercial appeal of these crafts without compromising authenticity. These partnerships can help integrate craft into contemporary lifestyles while maintaining its cultural roots.
In the age of global fashion cycles and instant virality, heritage cannot be treated as a fleeting trend. Indian crafts like the Kolhapuri chappal deserve more than a walk down a Milan runway—they deserve dignity, visibility, and fair compensation. Their value must be acknowledged not just for their aesthetic appeal, but through enduring systems that provide meaningful support, legal safeguards, and economic justice for the communities that create them. As Indian design finds its place on the global stage, the country must ensure that the hands that make its heritage visible are not left invisible in the process.
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